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Climbing is one of the fastest-growing outdoor sports in America. In 2022, there were nearly six million people climbing in rock gyms across the United States — a major increase of over 100,000 from 2021. And that’s not even counting all the climbers outside. All those people must be onto something amazing, right?
If you’re interested in rock climbing, you should know that there’s no piece of gear more important than the climbing shoes. Even free soloists like the world-famous Alex Honnold, who is notorious for using no protective gear at all, will still bring rock shoes up the wall. At the bare minimum, every climber needs at least one pair of the best climbing shoes in their arsenal. Besides, the holiday season is fast approaching, and climbing shoes make excellent gifts for outdoorsmen that they’ll actually use. Just like any workout shoe, performance isn’t the only factor to consider.
When shopping for climbing shoes, you also have to take into account comfort, durability, versatility, and price, among other factors. “For newer climbers buying their first pair of shoes, I’d recommend a shoe that’s reasonably priced and comfortable,” says professional climber and trad crusher Molly Mitchell, one of only a handful of women in the world to have sent a 5.14-difficulty climb.
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In years past, there were few options for climbers, with only one or two mainstay models from as many brands. Today there are dozens of brands producing climbing shoes, many with dozens of models. Climbers have a wealth of footwear options to choose from, so it pays to do some research before you make a purchase.
Colorways: Black, Grey
Materials: Synthetic upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Anti-odor mesh lining, Trax rubber, MX-P midsole, stretch-resistant Synthratek VX upper
Pros: Affordable, comfortable, fast break-in
Cons: Poor edging, low durability
Backcountry Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
REI Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.9/5 stars
Unlike many other newbie shoes, they’re also sensitive, with decent edging and particularly solid heel hooking. The flip side of that sensitivity is that these shoes wear out quite fast, but they’ll hold up fine if you’re planning on primarily climbing indoors (as most beginner climbers do). Add that to the sub-$90 price point, which hasn’t changed since I was a beginner over a decade ago, and you have a standout starter shoe that won’t break the bank. (Note: Size up. These shoes run small.)
What testers say: “Had an issue with sizing and exchanged them for a size up which fit me perfectly. Just got back into climbing after a few year hiatus. These shoes are neutral and work well in the climbing gym for an entry-to-intermediate climber. One thing to keep in mind is that the upper is suede and will stretch very little. I’m pretty consistent in a size 10 US across the board in different types of shoes, but I needed these in 11.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $109
Colorways: Olive, Tiger
Materials: Leather upper, microfiber lacing harness, rubber outsole
Special Features: Durable FriXion RS rubber, LaspoFlex midsole, synthetic lacing harness to reduce stretch
Pros: Affordable, durable, comfortable, supportive
Cons: Poor sensitivity, finicky fit
If you’re a beginner spending a lot of time outside, the Tarantulace is a better pick. It’ll hold up longer on real rock than the Defy, is a bit stiffer for added comfort, and is one of the best climbing shoes for slab and cracks as a beginner. However, you’re not going to see the same level of sensitive performance as the Defy. The lace-up style used here is my personal favorite since it allows you to fine-tune your fit, but keep in mind that it means these shoes take longer to put on and take off than a Velcro shoe like the Defy or a slipper. This is another reason why these are better shoes for outdoor climbers than indoor ones. Unlike the Defy, I recommend sizing down slightly with these. They run larger than most La Sportiva shoes.
What testers say: “I’m new to climbing, and these shoes have been great for me. Haven’t used them on actual rocks, but on the Treadwall at my gym, they are a tremendous help. Any problems I now encounter are entirely my own fault, and I can no longer blame my shoes.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $88.95
Colorways: Yellow
Materials: Microsuede/leather upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber, synthetic microfiber upper to minimize stretch, uber-thin, flexible sole (Flexan 1mm)
Pros: Comfortable, excellent on steep or overhung terrain
Cons: Pricey
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
Backcountry Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
Bouldering, steep sport, and indoor competition climbers — you’ve found your buy. At $200 plus, they’re fairly expensive, but most will appreciate Drago’s for a sensitivity that can’t be beaten. But for longer days on rock, that same sensitivity can easily turn to pain, and the Drago’s certainly aren’t protective enough for cracks or stiff enough for edging.
What testers say: “One of, if not the best pair of climbing shoes I’ve owned. I climb on a competitive team and currently already own two pairs and am going to buy the third soon. For me, they were a perfect fit right out of the box and maintained their structure until I felt I needed a new pair. The soft rubber is sensitive enough that it allows me to feel anything and everything on the wall as if I were climbing barefoot. On longer routes, I find that my foot will occasionally cramp due to the obviously intentional lack of stiffness in the shoe, however, this in no way takes away from the quality of the shoe.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $186.11
Colorways: Gold, Grey, White
Materials: Synthetic upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Synthratek VX upper for minimal stretch, MX-P midsole with “Love Bump,” 4.2mm Trax SAS rubber, Variable Thickness Rand for durability, three hook-and-loop straps for secure fit
Pros: Comfortable, durable, true fit
Cons: Soft rubber
Backcountry Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
REI Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.9/5 stars
Designed by one of the most legendary climbers of the ’90s and 2000s, Chris Sharma, the Shaman is famous for its “love bump,” which pushes your toes forward into an aggressive pose and keeps the shoe downturned throughout its life. That feature, and the Shaman’s comfortable midsole, helps your feet stay primed to crush without the jammed-up pain often associated with aggressive rock shoes. The Shamans are particularly good at locking into pockets, and are one of the best shoes for steep climbing, but they still manage to put some focus on comfort. Many climbers do find they fall short on edging, due to their soft rubber.
What testers say: “I love this shoe! It has been my new everyday shoes for about a year now. I have used it not every type of rock and it performs great on all. It also does extremely well on technical overhangs as well as delicate face climbing. They are extremely comfortable for climbing shoes as well. I think that these are great shoes for anyone from a beginner climber at the gym to an expert climber craving every chance they can get. All in all an amazing shoe!”
Price upon publish date of this article: $199
Colorways: Olive
Materials: Leather/microfiber upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: ECO leather (metal-free tanning process), recycled plastic bottle laces, mid-height cuffs, Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole, toe and ankle padding.
Pros: Ample protection, durable, all-day comfort
Cons: Pricey
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
REI Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.9/5 stars
Where these shoes fall short is on steep terrain, or on sensitivity-focused high-end gym, sport, or boulder routes. They’re more expensive than the Black Diamond Aspects (below), which are comparable shoes, but they’re much more protective. The protection and performance increase is worth the extra cash, particularly if you have a big wall on the menu
What testers say: “Like many others, I found this shoe because all my friends told me it was the best. After trying it for a bit I really like it too. It smears enough to get the job done, while also having some good stiffness. It edges all right too. There are definitely shoes that smear better, and shoes that edge better, but this is a great shoe. I go to these for the slab routes in my area, and I can smear and step on those little ripples in the rock with no worries.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $218.95
Colorways: Yellow, Black
Materials: Leather/microfiber upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Tubular construction with P3 technology, Vibram XS Edge rubber
Pros: All-around performance, stiff
Cons: Pricey, low sensitivity
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
REI Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.9/5 stars
These shoes are the perfect hybrid between a neutral, all-day shoe like the TC Pro and a more aggressive model like the Solution Comp (below). There are better shoes for specific use cases, and the Katana Lace definitely falls behind in the sensitivity department — but in general, intermediate climbers can end their search here. If you’re going to buy one shoe for all purposes, get this one.
What testers say: “The Katana laces are amongst the best all-around climbing shoes. Outdoors, they perform really well on anything from slightly less than vertical to moderately overhanging. When it comes to edging they amongst the best – if not the best – shoe on the market, they crack climb much better than you’d expect (almost on par with the TC pros), they are stiff and sturdy with great support for your feet, and really durable.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $199
Colorways: White/Blue
Materials: Microfiber upper, Lycra tongue, rubber outsole
Special Features: TXT-treated cotton lining
Pros: True fit, high performance
Cons: Low breathability
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
Backcountry Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
Some reviewers mentioned odor and breathability issues, but in general, it’s a solid all-rounder (as many shoes are) but climbers with narrow feet will particularly appreciate the fit here. The shoe’s dual-strapped hook-and-loop closure lets you adjust the width of the shoe naturally, and many reviewers who were unable to find solid heel contact in any other shoe were happy with the Oasi.
What testers say: “I am 6”4’ and have very narrow feet, and these shoes are the best ones I can find in my size. Fits the heel like a glove. They are very sensitive in the toe box and do great on technical climbing. The only small complaint I have is the support in the toe box isn’t very stiff, or Im just a heavy dude, and it breaks in super quick however, it doesn’t cause me lose much if any, on the performance side.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $189.94
Colorways: Black/Yellow
Materials: Leather/microfiber upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, P3 Power Platform for resoling, Fast Lacing System
Pros: Precise toe, sensitive heel
Cons: Pricey
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
Like the original Solutions, the Comp models feature an aggressive downturn that is a powerhouse on steep single-pitch and bouldering, with a unique velcro system that offers perhaps the best “locked-in” fit of any velcro shoe on the market. These shoes are famously comfortable for an aggressive shoe. The original Solution’s thicker heel — one point of contention among many users — has also been pared down here, meaning the Comp is essentially an upgrade in every aspect the original model fell short in. Downsides include a narrow fit and tall toe box. But all told, this is one of the most highly rated shoes in climbing shoe history, and it just got better.
What testers say: “I’ve been using Solutions for years and absolutely love it for everything except multi-pitch. My only sticking point (pun only partly intended) was that the perfectly fitting heel was like an ice pick, which is great a lot of the time, but it makes it hard to use your heel on smaller or smoother features.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $208.95
Colorways: Aluminum
Materials: Leather upper, rubber outsole, hemp lining
Special Features: NeoFriction Force molded rubber and Engineered Knit tech tongue for comfort, lateral stabilizer rands for edging power
Pros: Supportive, comfortable, durable
Cons: Low-cut design offers limited protection, limited utility on steeps
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
REI Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.9/5 stars
The Aspect is their first trad shoe, with a stiff, neutral sole that works equally well when edging and jamming in cracks, and is a solid shoe if you’re looking for comfort during big days on the wall. Lateral stabilizer rands combine with a medium-flex midsole for stalwart edging support, while the high-grade European leather uppers are extremely durable. The downsides are that its performance is significantly dampened on steeper terrain, and the low-top design offers less protection than most trad-specific shoes (but prevents Achilles pain on long days). All told, it remains an excellent shoe for traditional and big-wall climbing at an affordable price.
What testers say: “I’ve jumped all over the map to find a trad shoe that is secure and technical enough to handle fingertip cracks all the way to big hands and edge like a champ. This shoe was immediate magic once I put it on. Great traction, great fit, and a wide range of use. I normally wear a 10-10/12 st shoe. I got a 9 1/2 in this shoe and it’s snug toes but quickly feels molded to your foot.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $159.95
Colorways: Arctic, Flame
Materials: Microfiber/leather upper, rubber outsole
Special Features: Injected polyurethane artwork, 1/2 Sole No-Edge D-Tech (zero edge), differentiated 1-2 mm Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, no midsole for sensitivity
Pros: Maximum sensitivity, excellent heel cup, zero Edge Tech
Cons: Limited support
Amazon Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.5/5 stars
Backcountry Top-Quality Store Badge on Google: 4.8/5 stars
The Mantra is a shoe that can perform on the weirdest, most awkward indoor holds, curvy smears and bulbous volumes. It’s a standout shoe for gym and competition climbing, as well as any project where you need maximum sensitivity for micro holds. It’s not for everyone, but if you’ve ever truly wanted to feel the holds you’re climbing on (or if a specific project demands this) then the Mantra is for you.
What testers say: “This shoe is weirdly magical. It provides no real support but its sensitivity is unparalleled. I can feel everything I am standing on and feel just as confident that my foot is exactly where I need it to be. The fit is excellent. I normally wear a 43.5 Skwama; in the Mantra, I wear a 44. The shoe feels stable and there is no play between my foot and the shoe.”
Price upon publish date of this article: $152.47
Types of Climbing
Let’s break down the different types of climbing, because each requires a different footwear focus. Then, we’ll dive into some of the techniques and subsequent performance factors you need to consider when buying your shoe.
- Indoor climbing: Today, most beginners learn to climb at indoor climbing gyms. The best indoor climbing shoes put a focus on comfort, sensitivity, and performance. The rubber on your shoes isn’t going to wear out on plastic as fast as it will on rock, so durability is less important. You also won’t need to wear these shoes for long periods of time (most gym walls don’t go above 50 or 60 feet), so you want a shoe that you can put on and take off quickly when it’s your turn to climb or belay. For this reason, I recommend velcro strap or slip-on shoes for beginner indoor climbers.
- Sport climbing: Sport climbing is all about performance and, along with bouldering, it’s where most beginner climbers get their first experience on real rock. The best sport climbing shoes will vary in style, depending on how strong of a climber you are and the type of sport routes you like to climb (overhung, face, slab, etc.). But most likely, you’ll want to focus on a variety of techniques like smearing, toeing, edging, and hooking. You aren’t going to be jamming, and like indoor shoes, sport shoes don’t need to be left on all day. You’ll be taking them off and on frequently as you and your partner swap burns, so most climbers look for an aggressive, downturned shoe that prioritizes performance.
- Bouldering: Bouldering and sport climbing both typically call for aggressive shoes. Even more so than sport climbing shoes, however, bouldering shoes are extremely performance-focused, with a spotlight on hooking, pockets, and steep or hungover terrain. These are shoes you’ll likely only be wearing for a few minutes at a time, just to power out under a dozen tough-as-nails moves — so you want them to be powerful, putting your feet in the best position possible to send your project.
- Trad climbing: If you’re looking for a trad shoe, you’re probably already an experienced climber. Trad shoes put focus on comfort, durability, and support. Particularly if you’ll be doing any multipitch climbing — and you probably will if you climb trad — you’ll be wearing these shoes for long, long days. You want a shoe with a flat, stiff, and neutral footbed and a thicker outer. This helps it stand up to wear and tear from the rocks and provides reliable support when jamming in cracks and standing on small edges. Most trad shoes are also higher-topped, and burlier overall, to protect your feet and ankles from abrasion.
Common Foot Techniques in Climbing
- Edging: Edging is the most common climbing technique. Any time you’re using the toe, the outer (and occasionally the inner) rim of your climbing shoe to stand on small holds, you’re edging. Edging is what you’ll be doing 90% of the time when you’re climbing in a gym. Good edging requires stiff, supportive shoes (or strong feet and good technique).
- Smearing: Smearing is another common technique, involving “smearing” your foot on a blank face or a sloping hold, using the friction between your shoe and the rock to power yourself upwards. It’s less effective indoors on plywood gym walls, but can offer surprisingly good support on friction-heavy rocks like granite. Smear power is particularly important when slab climbing and on many face routes. Smearing is easiest when a shoe is sensitive and pliable, allowing the rubber to splay for maximum coverage.
- Hooking: Hooking can come from either the toe or the heel. It’s an advanced technique where you place your heel (or toe) onto a hold and then pull in towards your core, using the opposing pressure, either to balance and rest for a moment or to pull yourself upwards. This technique is commonly used on overhung terrain. In order to offer good hooking capabilities, a shoe should have rubber on the toe and heel and a sensitive fit to allow you to place your heel/toe with as much precision as possible.
- Jamming: Jamming is an advanced technique involving both hands and feet and is used for crack climbing. Jamming is perhaps the most difficult of all climbing techniques to learn. In the case of foot jams, jamming consists of placing your foot into a crack sideways, then twisting to turn your foot vertically again, using the opposing forces on either side to “jam” your foot into the crack and provide a faux foothold that you can push off of. In order to jam safely, you’ll need a shoe with a beefier rand and rubber coverage up the sides of your foot. Features like ankle cuffs and padding are also helpful.
What to Look for in the Best Climbing Shoes
- Downturn: Climbing shoes come in three varieties based on downturn (or how sharply hooked the shoe is). These are flat, moderate, and aggressive. In general, there is an inverse relationship between comfort and performance when you look at the turn of a shoe — but today there are plenty of aggressive shoes that are comfortable, too. That said, as a standard rule, flat, neutral shoes are the most comfortable. They are ideal for beginner climbers or long days on the wall. Aggressive shoes are the least comfortable but highest performing, best for sport climbing and bouldering. A downturn can impact performance in specific use cases, too. The flatter a shoe is, the better it will typically perform on slab or vertical terrain. Flat, neutral shoes are also better for crack climbing. The more aggressive a shoe is, the better it will perform as terrain becomes steeper or overhanging. Aggressive shoes direct power over the forefoot and toe, allowing a climber to toe into small edges or hook with precision.
- Type of closure: Climbing shoes feature either traditional lace-up, Velcro strap (hook and loop), or slip-on (elastic) closures. Some shoes offer a hybrid closure system, but the vast majority of all climbing shoes will use one of these three closure systems. Each offers unique advantages. Slippers are usually the most sensitive shoes and are the lowest profile, making them a good choice for crack routes or other scenarios where a bulky closure system on the top of your foot can get in the way. They’re also easy to get off and on, but don’t offer much flexibility in terms of fit. Many gym climbers wear slippers, and they’re the shoe of choice for speed climbers as well. Lace-up closures offer the best versatility in terms of fit. You can easily loosen and tighten them as the day goes on, making them the best choice for all-day climbing and big walls. The main downside with lacing closures is that they’re the slowest to take on and off. As a result, they’re not a prime choice for gym climbing, bouldering, and sport climbing, where most climbers opt for a highly aggressive shoe that they slip on and off between short burns. Velcro models offer a hybrid between lace-up and slippers. They’re quicker to take on and off than lace shoes, but offer a bit more control over fit than slippers. Velcro closures are extremely popular across the board, and are found on shoes in all demographics. Some Velcro closures incorporate a single hook-and-loop strap, others incorporate as many as three straps.
- Material: Most climbing shoes are made from either a leather or synthetic upper, with a rubber rand forming the outsole, sides, and toes. Let’s talk uppers and rubbers. The biggest concern with synthetic vs. leather uppers is stretch. Leather stretches a bit. Synthetic uppers typically don’t. As a result, it’s a good rule of thumb to downsize slightly with leather shoes. Synthetic shoes are more of a mixed bag, it depends on the fit. Some shoes feature lined leather uppers to minimize stretching to half-size. Unlined uppers may stretch up to a full size. Leather is also typically more durable than synthetic materials, and many climbers find that it breathes better, although this too, is case by case. The world of synthetics is vast. Rubber varies from brand to brand, and many brands have their own in-house compound, so it’s hard to compare there. The main things to think about with rubber are coverage and thickness. More rubber coverage means more versatility for your shoe. Rubber on the toes and heels makes for hooking, rubber on the sides makes for better jamming. Thicker rubber is stiffer and more durable, making shoes last longer on rock, perform better on edges, and protect against aggressive cracks and other similar features. Thinner rubber offers increased sensitivity, ideal for indoor climbing, overhung turf, and technical sequences on boulders and sport routes.
- Fit/sizing: A climbing shoe should fit as tightly as possible without causing pain. There should be no air pockets whatsoever. Your toes should be pushed forward into the toe box for maximum power, without being crushed. As a beginner, this is less important, and you can focus more on comfort. It’s also not as important for all-day or bigwall shoes. But if you want maximum performance, you want your climbing shoe fit to be as sock-like as possible. So how do you achieve this? Well in years past, when climbing was still a niche market, it was common to always downsize at least one size to two sizes from your street shoes. When shopping for performance shoes, today most climbers still downsize, but downsizing isn’t a rule of thumb for all climbers. Sizing varies based on brand, and many modern brands size their shoes specifically for climbing. Some — like La Sportiva and Scarpa — should always be downsized one to two sizes for a performance fit. Others — like Five Ten and Evolv — fit closer to true street size, and often don’t need to be downsized at all. It also depends on the specific model. So ultimately there is no across-the-board rule about sizing a climbing shoe. The best move is to read extensively about the model you’re eyeing to figure out the best fit. If you check customer reviewers below the product, you’ll see tons of other people sharing their experiences with shoe fit. And if you’re a new climber, don’t get shanghaied into smashing your feet into a painful shoe. As long as your foot is tight, making contact with all the rubber, heel and toe snug, that model will do just fine.
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For more than 75 years, Footwear News has been the shoe authority. Our coverage spans top industry news, retail trends, head-to-toe fashion, athletic and outdoor analysis and more. Footwear News’ global network of editors has carefully curated all product selections featured using our expansive brand knowledge and thorough research to find quality, long-lasting items. Learn more about us here.
Although I write for Footwear News regularly, I’m first and foremost a climbing journalist. I’ve been rock climbing for 16 years now, and writing about climbing for half that time. I’ve worn and tested dozens of models of climbing shoes, and interviewed everyone from professional boulderers to big wall climbers, often gleaning their perspectives on shoes in the process. In this article, I’ve collected the 10 best shoes on the market in 2023, with added input from pro climbers.
Meet the Author
Owen Clarke is an action sports journalist with 15+ years of experience in the outdoors, primarily in the vertical world of rock climbing and mountaineering. He has climbed around the world, and his work appears in 50+ magazines, including Outside, Climbing, Rock and Ice, Climbing House, Backpacker, SKI, Rock and Snow, Trail Runner, Iron & Air, Yoga Journal, and Travel+Leisure.
