Fashion month continues its transatlantic trek, stopping this week in Italy for Milan Fashion Week. As fashion’s well-established footwear capital, there are plenty of shoes to take in during the week, both on the runways and at the many presentations that will take place, usually during the busy weekend.
This season, all is abuzz at Gucci, where newly minted creative director Sabato de Sarno will presented. The designer already unveiled a new artistic direction for the brand, particularly its packaging, which will now be done in red. The brand will show its spring ’24 collection on Friday at its headquarters on the outskirts of Milan.
On Thursday night, Tom Ford will join the Milan Fashion Week runways. It will be the first show since the namesake designer sold his brand and the debut collection for Peter Hawkings, Ford’s longtime right hand who had previously served as senior vice president of Tom Ford menswear before taking the helm of creative director for the entire brand.
Fendi, Prada, Diesel, Ferragamo, Versace and Bottega Veneta will all be showing during their usual times, falling back into a long-running Milan Fashion Week schedule.
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After sitting out fashion weeks in favor of a more see-now, buy-now format, The Attico is returning to Milan Fashion Week, this time with a runway show in lieu of its past presentations (which were known for their creativity, especially in location).
Here, a look at the buzziest moments and top shoe news from Milan Fashion Week’s spring ’24 season.
The CNMI’s Sustainable Fashion Awards Continue to Grow in Influence
The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana hosted its annual Sustainable Fashion Awards in collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of United Nation Agency ITC and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, on Sunday night. Held at the Teatro alla Scala, the black-tie event has quickly grown in influence and become Milan Fashion Week’s official closing event over the past few years.
Hosted by Italian actress Sabrina Impacciatore (of “White Lotus” fame), the event focused on honoring individuals and organizations that have contributed significantly to the fashion industry’s sustainability efforts through circular economy, human rights and environmental justice.
Top awards went to Edward Enninful, who received the Visionary Award. Gucci’s Circular Hub’s Denim Project received the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Award for Circular Economy, while Pierpaolo Picciolo and the tailors of Valentino received the Education of Excellence Award. The Bicester Collection Award for Emerging Designers went to British designer Priya Ahluwalia, while Donatella Versace received the Humanitarian Award for Equity and Inclusivity.
Aera Toasts Milan Fashion Week With a Stylish Aperitivo
For Tina Bhojwani, the shoe business is all about family — “The Aera Family” that is.
The founder recently established a collective of influential and impact-focused women investors who work together to amplify the luxury brand’s ethical and eco-conscious mission.
And so it was fitting that one of them — Italian Stock Exchange Chair Claudia Parzani — opened the doors of her stylish Milan home to host a fashion week aperitivo. The event brought together a diverse mix of Milan locals and fashion week goers from around the world.
Bhojwani was also celebrating the debut of her collection at Antonia, one of Milan’s best boutiques.
Inside Jimmy Choo’s Experiential Presentation Rooms
Held in a neoclassical palace with Renaissance origins, Jimmy Choo’s spring ’24 presentation had a little bit of everything — a 3D goddess, K-pop star Mi-Yeon of (G)I-DLE and a series of experiential rooms that provided a glamorous backdrop for the bags and shoes.
For the new season, there is a big focus on the Drop heel — designed to evoke fluidity with its rounded tip. The heel, first introduced last season, is the focal point of a minimal sandal, and also shows up on a patent pump, slingback and mule. “It came from this idea of making something that is very sexy and feminine,” said creative director Sandra Choi.
The brand’s Avenue motif — with its signature quilted design — makes a strong statement across the bag and shoe collections.
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Fratelli Rossetti Marks 70 Years With Supersized Brera Loafer
As the brand marks 70 years, Fratelli Rossetti used its presentation to tell the story of its Italian heritage with a special exhibit — and celebrated its iconic loafer.
A larger-than-life version of the limited-edition Brera style — in stores and online now — greeted visitors at the presentation.
Other key items — some of which remain bestsellers today — also were in the spotlight, from the brand’s original ice skate to the Magenta boot to the sockless Yacht to the Hobo slipper.
Rodo’s Dream Weavers Add Texture to Shoes and Bags
The brand leaned into its artistic know-how of weaving for the season, introducing a brand new wicker technique into its handbags while also playing with woven leather to give footwear a similarly textured look. A new wicker heel adorned leather mules and a wicker toe detail topped low sling backs, while sneakers were outfitted woven leather meant to look like wicker.
“I really think that we have to diversify ourselves. Today if you want to be successful you have to be different,” said Gianni Dori. The Rodo CEO also noted that come April, the brand will showcase its weaving and embroidery techniques at artisan activations inside Selfridge’s and Harrod’s, respectively.
The spring collection was not without an evening component. Satin bags and cushioned platforms (the best were done in a chartreuse) were still sprinkled with crystal embroidery, but a bit less than two years ago. And a mesh ballerina gets the full Rodo treatment in crystal knots.
Flower Mountain Celebrates Nature, Reveals Capsule Collection
The sneaker brand, born in Tokyo, celebrated its deep connection to nature, with lush plants serving as the backdrop for its colorful collection that tapped into the continuing convergence of fashion and outdoor.
It launched a see now, buy now capsule with London-based collaborator Kish Kash.
And for spring ’24, Flower Mountain explores the relationship between denim and the complex art of Sashiko, an ancient Japanese embroidery technique characterised by precious handmade textures.
Le Silla Celebrates its Iconic Styles
Archival styles took center stage at Le Silla, where the brand showcased some of its classic designs in updated styling. A tweaked version of the Punk pumps played up digital prints, while caged boots, pumps and sabots with sharp heels also paid homage to earlier looks.
AGL Gives the Anatomically Shaped Footbed a High Heel
When Piero Giusti founded his footwear company in 1958, comfort shoes and a glove-like fit quickly became AGL’s reputation. And since third-generation sisters Sara, Vera and Marianna came on board some twenty years ago, the brand has been focused on taking the footwear into a more fashion-forward direction.
For the spring ’24 collection, the Giusti sisters brought past and present into clearer view. One mule features the chunky round sole the brand has utilized for a few seasons, adding an anatomically shaped footbed onto it and finishing it with hand-tied ruched leather bows. “I really wanted to mix up things,” said Vera Giusti of the collection, which she described as a mix of rococo and rock — hence its name “Rocorock Queen.” “Our research is based on comfort. My grandfather used to make just comfort shoes.”
Elsewhere in the collection, AGL is leaning into its modern roots in the ballet flat by updating the silhouette with more of their signature quirks. One style utilizes the oversized leather bows, while another is done in plush terry fabric. A more rigid leather ballerina is outfitted in tulle and delicate paper detailing — all like a tutu for the feet.
Charles Philip Milano Stays Grounded
It’s a good time to be a brand focused on flat shoes, and for spring ‘24 Charles Philip kept things characteristically low in height. In addition to its usual slippers, done in a square toe in suede and leather, the brand added ballerinas and kitten heels to round out the collection. There were on-trend mesh flats in black, nude and yellow fishnet, and silver studded leather ballerinas done in black, white and pastels. The satin Elena kitten heel (with or without a velvet bow) is the dressiest of the bunch, though it’s easy to see it as an evening shoe.
The brand also unveiled a new art direction, using a saffron hue as its signature color. A new logo, meanwhile, uses the CPM initials to form the shape of a tassel, nodding to the brand’s original slipper design.
Kate Cate Is All About the Metallic Details
Italian model-turned-designer Caterina Ravaglia is hoping to take her fledgling shoe business to the next level with several key styles for spring ’24. A 90s-inspired sandal comes decked out with metallic fringes on the heels, while a ballet flat shines with special details. The designer’s combat boot is also adorned with metallic details.
Mach & Mach Moves Beyond the Crystal Bow
With a new office and showroom in Milan, the Georgian brand is building the business and venturing beyond its crystal bow. New details and embellishments — the pearl is the centerpiece — define the spring ’24 collection, inspired by under-the-sea adventures and seaside locales. The Mermaid Pearl sandals, with sculptural kitten heels, are the brand’s first thong style and feature straps lit up by shimmering pearls. Slingbacks are updated and fashioned in satin and lace ruffles.
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio Is Already Ready for Next Summer
Edgardo Osorio understands the appeal of quiet luxury, but some moments call for fashion that is a little bit louder.
For spring ’24, the designer, who resides in both Florence and Venice, wanted to celebrate all things Italy. “All of the different shoes are reminders of my favorite places,” he said. “I want them to make you smile, and make you want to go on holiday.”
From his “fruit” flats — all the decorative embellishments were crafted in Colombia — to the jewelry shoes the brand has become known for, Osorio wants his consumer to pack multiple pairs of Aquazzura to take her from day to night.
Among the designer’s favorite styles is the Capri Crush. “It has one of my favorite things in the world — coral. “I love the sea and we decided to make a whole line — a clutch, jewelry and a statement flat,” Osorio said.
Sergio Rossi Goes All In With the Mermaid
With new leadership at the helm and a fresh growth strategy now in place, the brand continues to take advantage of its rich archive.
This season, Sergio Rossi brings back a hero style from 2010, the Mermaid, defined by its perforated leather and its trompe-l’oeil effect on the skin.
From a cage bootie and over-the-knee boot to a ballerina and platform sandal, the Mermaid story is extensive.
Pollini Takes a Soft Approach for Spring 2024
Coming out of its 70th anniversary for 2023, Pollini is carrying on with some of the details it has pulled from the archives, specifically its Cremini striped sole, done for spring on thong sandals and Cavaliere boots alike. Both also include O-ring gold hardware and logo stamping, additional archival details added to both footwear and handbags for the season.
Pollini’s loafer gets a slimmer, softer treatment for spring, veering almost into ballet flat territory. And ultra-flexible metallic gold leather shapes a series of sling backs and ankle-wrap sandals that incorporate the scrunch detailing of a ballet flat — the heels stay, though.
In handbags, supple suede mixes with sturdy polished leather and woven raffia adds to the softness of the season.
Hogan Kicks Its Up a Notch With New Versions of H-Stripe Sneakers
The brand’s H-Stripe sneakers are the story of the season — with plush white leathers paired with the colorful H signature and pastel accents. Gender neutral jogging-inspired sneakers also make a statement. The Hogan H bag is crafted in a scale of earthy shades or pastel hues.
Casadei Gets Beach-Ready With Pool Slides, Jelly Sandals and a New Accessory Category
It may be known for its Blade heel, but that’s not stopping Casadei from flexing its craftsmanship muscles to show what it’s always been capable of in other categories. For spring ’24, the brand is ready for the beach, introducing a new mini heel — the Galaxy, which has hardware that is hammered by hand and a line of crystals to keep it elevated figuratively, if not literally.
The vacation-ready footwear (which also includes jelly flip flops with bejeweled bees) spans a few color stories (shades of red, ready for a “tomato girl summer” part 2, but also a soft pink, Mediterranean blue, salty white and glossy black). The vignettes included woven beach bags (the brand launched handbags last season), plus a series of wide-brimmed straw hats and retro cloches, a new category for the brand. “Everything is designed to be cross-generation, “For us, it’s a full look. You have the possibility to wear the total look but also play with it. Our DNA can cross into different categories,” said Casadei CEO Arianna Casadei during the brand’s presentation.
Elsewhere in the collection, flats are prominent, leaning into the ballerina trend with a flexible scrunched styles in metallic leather and grosgrain bows and crystals. The Blade stiletto is still present, but done almost exclusively this time in a slingback. “We want to experiment across the collection,” said Casadei, who noted that the brand will enter the Chinese market at the end of the year. “At the end of the day, women’s needs, around the world, are the same.”
René Caovilla Does Quiet Luxury on its Own Terms
How does a brand with bling in its DNA navigate this moment of quiet luxury? For Giorgia Caovilla, it’s about taking things down a notch but not losing the essence of René Caovilla’s rococo aesthetic. “I think that the quiet luxury moment still has space for all brands,” said the third generation executive. “Luxury will never stop, maybe tastes change, but it’s still there. We are trying to do some simpler styles but still rich. And not necessarily [in] lower heels.”
Caovilla pointed to a series of sandals with a new cantilevered wedge heel as proof. Done in gold, silver and black, the sandal utilizes René Caovilla’s signature Cleo serpent-wrapped upper, swapping out chandelier crystals for articulated tubular bracelet hardware. The brand also removed embellishment from its Cleo for a series of satin styles done in various skin tones, named the Cleopatra.
As the 70th anniversary of its Cleo sandal wraps up for the year, the brand is also bringing an archive piece to production for spring ’24. A beaded style inspired by the jewelry of Maasai tribes in East Africa from the ’80s was done in its original color way along with a turquoise and gray version and will come in both a heel and a flat that’s screaming for a fabulous vacation come summertime.
Gianvito Rossi Is Thinking About the Roman Empire
Talk about being on trend. As the viral conversation around the Roman Empire reached a fever pitch — on TikTok, the hashtag has racked up more than a billion views — Gianvito Rossi debuted his spring ’24 collection at just the right time. Its starting point? Rome and its rich history.
“The last time I was in Rome, I thought about how beautiful it is — and what a great inspiration and story we have there,” Rossi said. “I tried to bring some elements of [its history] into the collection.”
Some of the most iconic symbols of Ancient Rome are revived in Rossi’s styles. Gold stiletto sandals call to mind the wristbands worn during the glory days of the Roman Empire. And the theme is also clear in a gladiator sandal, where golden laurels — the symbol of victory and honor — envelop the leg. The floral embellishment also adorns an ultra-feminine pointy-toe sandal style.
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Giuseppe Zanotti Offers Up a New Twist on Classic Styles
Known for his ability to make his greatest hits feel exciting again, Zanotti is turning to his past once again for spring ’24. A classic mule gets a lift with an aerodynamic heel, updated from the archives. The designer’s focus on elongated lines is visible in the four-strap patent leather sandal, and his affinity for a little bling is shown in a pointy-toe sandal with rhinestone torchon ankle strap. Finally, leopard — now a fashion neutral for many — makes a return in a towering platform.
Stuart Weitzman Launches Men’s, Celebrates 30 Years of 5050
The debut of men’s was the big news at Stuart Weitzman, which is launching a made-in-Italy collection. Across the women’s assortment, the tried-and-true nudist sandal is reimagined with wood veneer heels and platforms. And as the 5050 boot turns 30, the iconic style is back in the spotlight — with a big push planned for fall. The brand — which recently saw the departure of designer Edmundo Castillo — also is making a foray into women’s sneakers.
Santoni Turns Up the Heat on its Women’s Business
Best known for its elegantly crafted men’s looks, Santoni is focusing more heavily on the women’s business for spring ’24. The brand — which drew inspiration from Marche, the shoemaking region where it’s based — offered up geometric-heeled sandals and pointy-toe pumps in a variety of heights. A loafer paid tribute to the founder, and the brand’s double buckle signature detailing was incorporated heavily throughout. Carla Bruni and Bar Rafaeli stopped by the presentation, and carried ThePluto, Santoni’s new hero bag.
Themoire Celebrates Colombia’s Women Artisans With Third Fashion Week Capsule
Generations of women artisans in southern Colombia have perfected the art of weaving — and Themoiré decided to spotlight their talents — and their communities — in the brand’s third capsule collection. The environmentally responsible brand partnered with 200 women who use natural Iraca fibers, which are biodegradable, as the centerpiece of their work. From the label’s signature handbag designs to new clutches and shoulder bags, each of the special styles is hand woven and fashioned in three colors inspired by the hues of Colombian cities.
Nicolò Beretta’s Sculptural Styles Are Full of Color and Details
Inspired by designers such as Nanda Vigo and Gabriella Crespi — and the archives of Giuseppe Zanotti (the young talent’s biggest supporter) — Nicolò Beretta took his feminine aesthetic to the next level. Sculptural styles fashioned in new materials and bright colors put the focus on eye-catching details. Mules came adorned with chrome drapery on the toe, while swirls of ribbon and metal mesh (embroidered with chandelier-effect crystals) decorated sandals. Python print styles in laminated shades also made a strong statement.
Diesel Holds an 8-Hour Rave for 7,000 People at its Spring ’24 Show
The Italian brand held a free rave and film festival, inviting 6,000 public attendees (including a good portion of students) to join the celebration of a 1,000-person industry audience. In the middle of it all, the collection made its runway appearance, joining in on the raver vibe with dizzying prints, crystal-covered minis, roomy cargos and some serious boots for dancing all night.
