Milan Fashion Week officially kicked off its concise but action-packed week of runway shows, presentations and events on Wednesday, Feb. 22 for the fall winter ’23 season.
All eyes were once again on Gucci as it held its transitional show, after the November departure of former creative director Alessandro Michele, before incoming creative director Sabato De Sarno makes his debut in September for the spring summer ’24 collection.
The week also saw more Y2K-influenced buzz from the likes of Diesel, Blumarine and GCDS, a buzzy Bottega Veneta show chock full of footwear and accessories, a new pump from Prada and more.
Below, a rundown of all the footwear moments from Milan Fashion Week’s fall winter ’23 season.
Jimmy Choo pays homage to punk
It’s no surprise that the spirit of punk is coursing through fashion’s creative minds, with the recent death of Dame Vivienne Westwood. For fall winter ’23, Jimmy Choo joined the calling, adding tartan prints and diamond-shaped studs to everything from the expected combat boot to more ladylike ballet flats (also adorned with pearls) and glittering wedge tall boots. “Being a Brit, punk is everything,” creative director Sandra Choi told FN at the brand’s MFW presentation on Saturday. “It’s identity, it’s that dose of being different. This is about the merging of the two worlds, something princess-y mixing with punk.” Elsewhere in the collection, everything from signature bow-accented flats to smooth leather mules received the pointy-toed treatment.
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Gianvito Rossi hosts the “Shoe Bar”
The footwear designer’s aperitivo inside the foyer of Milan’s Teatro alla Scala was the social event of the night on Friday at Milan Fashion Week, as guests rubbed elbows with each other — and the fall winter ’23 collection that was on display inside. Rossi once again focused on a strong boot offering to drive the season, toggling between classics in soft and patent leathers (some with lace-up details, others with curb-link anklets) and more novelty ideas, such as graduated metal grommets, stamped snake print and a thigh-high, cut-out gladiator that reminds trend watchers the style is due for a revival. The designer’s staple platform heels and strappy sandals were also still there, this time done in a royal purple. the clear statement color of the season.
Prada ups the ante on the kitten heel
The Prada kitten heel, with its minty or bubblegum colors (paired with the ever-sought-after triangular logo) has become something of a status symbol for those still wearing kitten heels (and for those who might want to try them out for the first time). For fall winter ’23, the brand put forth another round, this time decorating them with origami-like folds and flowers, all made of soft leather and done in white, black, pink and orange. The shoe also came in a flat style — the now-signature pointy toe stayed the same. All were paired with simple Saffiano leather trapezoid bags destined to continue the brand’s logo-mania dominance.
Bottega Veneta keeps its cool
The luxury brand’s Saturday night runway show at the tail-end of Milan Fashion Week was a sartorial cornucopia of silhouettes, shapes and materials, all of which gelled into an exciting show with footwear that went beyond that oversized, over-the-knee intrecciato (but still showcased it).
There were wedge heels, done in mules and tall boots in mint green, gold and black patent, while a silver pump with a shaped heel and high vamp was decked out with a red rubber sole that curved up the side for a wavy feel. Clear resin bubble mules with specks of gold and a heavy club foot shape formed the eccentric end of the offering while over-the-knee intrecciatos and classic leather boots played it safe but luxe. A cream braided leather sandal with gold accents and a cherry toe was refreshing, and a men’s woven leather Western boot was shaped just so that the average guy might just give it a go.
Giuseppe Zanotti goes rhinestone cowboy
Zanotti is the footwear king of bling, but the fall winter ‘23 collection is a reminder of the designer’s versatility to trends. Slouchy stiletto boots in patent leather and exaggerated buckle styles had no crystal embellishment, while the popular Intriigo ankle strap sandal was updated in a satin material. There were still crystals here and feathers there, plus new colorways of the Bebe platform, a bestseller. And while it’s easy to imagine what a rhinestone cowboy (or girl) might look like in Zanotti world, the designer’s actual take on the Western trend was surprisingly tame, in smooth leather (black, white, red and bubblegum pink) with neat rows of round crystals on the Cuban heel — one of the best of the season.
Ferragamo polishes up with slick heels and high-impact boots
In his sophomore collection, creative director Maximilian Davis proved that he could mine the Ferragamo archives while offering a slick, futuristic point of view that just happened to coincide with a minimalist turn for the season. Founder Salvatore Ferragamo invented the wedge heel back in the late 1930s; here, Davis inverted the heel (as the brand has done over the years) and added patent leather and a slick pointed toe (one of many for the season) for a sharp look.
Davis did the same zhuzhing of the men’s footwear (the show was co-ed show), taking Ferragamo’s heritage of shoemaking and leather craftsmanship and putting it all to great use on more modern silhouettes, included a lug soled boot and high-polished knee boot that will give an instant update to the loyal Ferragamo guy.
René Caovilla celebrates 50 years of the Cleo
This year marks the 50th anniversary of the Cleo, the serpent-like sandal that René Caovilla designed in 1973 (after a trip to Naples, as the story goes, where the shoemaker discovered a snake-like Roman bracelet and set to work on recreating it in a heel).
“Every shoe for my father is a piece of him,” said Giorgia Caovilla, René’s daughter, at the brand’s presentation, which pulled actual styles from the archives to showcase, from funky sculptural iterations from the ‘70s to more recent chandelier crystal heels — and the pair that was displayed at New York’s Musuem of Modern Art back in 1975. “When he would go on vacation, he would take the shoes with him, just to enjoy. These shoes make him happy.”
To fête the milestone, Caovilla will reissue five archival styles of the Cleo and is also planning a tour of 50 actual archival heels that will make their way to Paris, New York and other locales later this year.
The fall winter ‘23 collection, meanwhile, had the usual dose of crystal detailing for the brand but also included seasonal trends such as suede Western boots – decked out with a serpent motif, naturally.
Santoni takes on its double strap
The luxury shoemaker continued to explore what its traditionally masculine codes look like when reinterpreted in feminine touches for its women’s collection. Last fall’s sculptural homage to its signature double buckle done in gold hardware is now a ubiquitous design detail in the line; this time around it came with a crystal application — and the pumps stayed high, and classically shaped.
The monkstrap motif also made its way onto a new bag, the Pluto, in a curved asymmetrical shape with smooth matte leather, as well as a pair of ballet flats that suggest a more gentle (and comfortable) gender bend. The brand’s expertise in hand painted finishings was still apparent on a pair of ultra-chunky loafers done in an arancia hue that nearly matched Santoni’s signature sole.
AGL collabs with supermodel Kristen McMenamy
An unexpected collaboration with supermodel Kristen McMenamy highlights what the AGL sisters (Sara, Vera and Marianna Giusti) do best: footwear and accessories that are delightfully quirky and increasingly strike a harmony in editorial and commercial viability with standout shapes and color palettes — this is no longer just a ballet flat brand. The collab took AGL into Western territory, with a series of cowgirl boots (both high and low) decked out in silver toes, tone-on-tone stitching, puffy leather uppers and deep purple — McMenamy’s favorite hue that also happens to be a strong color trend for the season.
Elsewhere in the fall winter ‘23 collection, all manner of platform boots prevail and a Greek-column-inspired stacked heel on a series of foldover boots showcase the AGL idiosyncrasy.
Gia Borghini supersizes the lug sole
With all of the stilettos and pointy toes back on the runway, it was a relief to see that some designers are still exploring the footwear trends that are resonating in real life and are more than likely to continue through the rest of the year. Designer Barbara Borghini has created a line of cool girl shoes with comfort cleverly and inherently designed into them (padded leather, ergonomically shaped heels). Instead of moving on from the ubiquitous lug sole (so ubiquitous that they are now a staple in comfort brands), Borghini differentiated by taking it up a notch — or three — with a super-sized version on both a tall boot and a hiker/combat hybrid that’s destined to be the real power shoe of its future wearers.
Le Silla gets to the point
The timing is right for Le Silla’s signature style, the Eva, a stiletto pump with a pointed toe and gravity-defying pitch that has been a red carpet staple for the likes of Beyoncé, Cate Blanchett, Julia Fox and Rihanna. Those sharp lines run through the rest of the fall winter ‘23 collection, where creative director Monica Ciabattini has ensured that those looking for sparkle can still find it. Stiletto Western boots, pointed-toe platform pumps, foldover embellished denim boots and crystal-encrusted hosiery-like thigh-high are high-impact pieces for the brave maximalist — and a pair of super-spiky stiletto sandals are just begging for a Rihanna cameo.
Casadei hosts a “shoe tasting”
There was something for everyone at the brand’s food-inspired presentation inside the Four Seasons, where creative director Cesare Casadei continued to explore the footwear needs of the modern woman, from day to night. Modern hiker/combat hybrids with oversized soles are still the silhouette du jour, along with a Western ankle boot done in a crackled leather, inspired by a trip to L.A. last year where Casadei witnessed the unexpected summer boot trend.
Fall’s stiletto comeback is also a good thing for the brand’s Blade heel; this time it was done in a patent leather thigh boot (in fire engine red), a black patent ankle style and a crystal evening sandal with a disappearing PVC ankle strap.
The season also introduces handbags to the brand, with five styles named after the Casadei women — including daughter Arianna, who just stepped into the role of CEO and general manager.
Philippe Model upcyles its La Grande sneaker
Alongside a strong lineup of crisp raw denim separates, fuzzy knitwear, military jackets and classic and clean trenches, the brand’s La Grande sneaker got a sustainable update with the introduction of an upcycled capsule of the style. With 6 colorways for women and 7 in the men’s category, the sneakers feature deadstock materials, some from the brand’s own archives all mixed into a patchwork on the ‘90s-basketball-inspired shoe.
Pollini dives into the archives
It’s an anniversary year for the shoemaker, and the brand is celebrating its 70th with the release of a capsule of 10 pieces through its Pollini Archive line that include its Cavaliere boot in a glossy burgundy leather and stacked heel, along with other boot and loafer styles that incorporate various details from the archives, such as a striped sole from the ‘60s and buckle details from the ‘70s. “We are taking little details from the archives and applying them to styles that follow market trends,” noted style and merchandising director Natalia Battaglini. One handbag and boot combo sees the use of fur, sourced from vintage fur coats and reassembled into a patchwork-like motif on a shoulder style and a convertible stacked boot.
Other standout styles within the fall winter ‘23 collection include a slouchy stacked heel boot in both suede glossy leather.
Rodo readies for the red carpet
The heritage brand continues to update its evening offerings, focusing on both satin and crystal, utilizing a braided crystal hardware detailing on straps and slingbacks of heels and also on the handles of its Berenice bag (which is already gaining traction on the red carpet, having made an appearance on Aubrey Plaza during SAG Awards weekend). The evening lineup (in a palette of fuchsia, purple and royal blue) also includes a new wedge heel in a pump and a sandal, done with an open work structure decorated in crystal baguettes.
For day, croc embossed leather got more texture and hardware buckles went up in size, and both boots and bags were done in soft leather folds and ruching.
Etro goes granny-chic with embroideries, shawls and more vintage totems
Always skirting the edge of hippie-chic, Etro went a few decades further back for its fall winter ’23 women’s runway colletion
Max Mara stays true to the camel hue — boots included
Everyone in fashion knowns that camel and Max Mara go hand in hand. So it was no surprise to see the neutral tone dominate the brand’s fall winter ’23 runway show from head to toe — and even lips, as the accompanying beauty looks revealed. In addition to dramatic teddy hoods, chunky knit headbands and thick black leather obi belts, boots were done in a glossy caramel or espresso leather, which matched the brand’s equally shiny duffels.
Diesel counts condoms and whale tails
Arguably MFW’s buzziest show of the post-pandemic era, Diesel continued its newfound notoriety on Wednesday when models strutted around a giant mountain of condoms (a nod to an upcoming collaboration with the brand Durex), wearing more of the Y2K-tinged denim, low rises and shredded frocks that creative director Glenn Martens has become known for since joining the brand. This time around, the denim was sans-waistbands and a few pairs featured see-through mesh panels and/or trompe-l’œil low-rise thong whale tales — the real indicator that the 2000s are back.
