When it comes to luxury footwear, there’s no place like Milan Fashion Week. Here is a look at the top news from spring ’25 shoe presentations across the city.
Jimmy Choo
Playful. Intricate. Hyper. That’s how Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi describes the label’s spring ’25 collection. This season, Choi looked back to Y2K, an important period for the brand and an era now being wholeheartedly embraced by Gen Z . “I really love this idea of girlfriends going out, hanging out, playing hard — I lived it myself,” she said. The mule is the star silhouette this season, while the Drop heel continues to make a statement as a new signature. And when it comes to embellishment, more is more.
Gianvito Rossi
Welcome to the jungle, Gianvito Rossi style. Luscious plants served as the bountiful backdrop for the designer’s spring 2025 “jungle couture” presentation. Nature’s creatures inspire many of the collection’s styles: Butterfly’s wings, in mesh and suede, embellish stiletto sandals and tie-up booties. A lion’s mane serves as the inspiration for embellished mules. And a gladiator sandal recalls the coils of the mamba snake. The designer also highlights his focus on intricate craftsmanship: A pair of lace-up stiletto sandals features 300 two-tone rhinestones, arranged by hand on leather strips.
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Aquazzura
When Edgardo Osorio needs to recharge, he heads to straight to the sea — and the Aquazzura designer crafted his spring ’25 collection during a trip to Mexico. “There are subtle influences and a lot of workmanship and craftsmanship — macramé, embroidery, beading,” he said. Fish, shells, corals and crabs — handmade by women artisans in Colombia — decorate raffia bags and sandals, while the “Wave” plexi wedge sandal serves up glamour. Metallic and stone-like studs give rope sandals a cool Boho edge. Flats get the broderie anglaise treatment.
Giuseppe Zanotti
Three decades and counting. Footwear veteran Giuseppe Zanotti — who just opened a new space at Milan’s Rinascente department store — has a lot to celebrate, including a major endorsement from none other than Taylor Swift — who has worn his thigh-high boots to two recent Chiefs games. “We’ve been working with her since she was a teenager. I’m very proud,” said the designer. Zanotti is marking 30 years of his namesake label with a special capsule focusing on the iconic Ring sandal. The look is reinterpreted in a classic flat and new block heel. Details define the main spring ’25 collection — from delicate metal flowers to glittering crystals to gold dome plates. The signature pointed-toe Intriigo silhouette is updated with hand-woven leather knots, while ballerinas go from day to night.
Paris Texas
With a stylish new showroom in Milan and a just-released ad campaign that celebrates its dual personas, Paris Texas is kicking off spring ’25 with a bang. During a tour of the new space, founder and creative director Annamaria Brivio reminisced about her trip to the California desert, where she shot with photographer Harley Weir from day to night to capture all the fruits of the landscape — dramatic sunsets, rugged backdrops and joshua trees, of course. Building on the vibe of fall ’24, the collection features wedge sandals in a gradient of colors inspired by the skies at dawn. Dramatic lace-up sandals, embossed from crocodile leather in rouge noir, are a fresh addition. Mules inspired by the new showroom are bedazzled with a mirror-effect stiletto heel, while another mule style features a block Plexiglas heel hiding an engraved logo. There are also more flats on offer, including a fringed loafer and raffia ballet flats. And of course, the brand’s signature boots, worn by Beyoncé and more big names, are a mainstay, and get prime real estate in a museum-like space in the showroom.
AGL
With a design philosophy rooted in nature and mythology, the three sisters behind AGL drew on the imagery of contemporary nymphs. The water lily, a symbol of purity and elegance, is the thread through many of spring’s designs. Delicate leather petals adorn ballet flats and heeled sandals, and the motif is also embroidered on mules and knee-high gladiator sandals.
Hogan
A larger-than-life video wall brought summer vibes to the Hogan showroom as the brand unveiled its spring ’25 collection inspired by Italo Disco culture and the nostalgia of the coast. Sneakers, moccasins and boat shoes are fashioned in tactile suede or with leather-wrapped soles. and bags are versatile and beach-ready.
Mach & Mach
Get ready for Valentine’s Day with Mach & Mach’s ‘Puffy Heart’ mules, sandals, and Mary Janes adorned with heart charms in lacquered red and silver. Mesh ballet flats get a heavy dose of sparkle with oversized diamond-like broaches.
Casadei
Showing in its new Milan digs, the brand unveiled a Superblade slingback, only available in black or white, to match the ambiance of one of the rooms. The Mini Blade heel — at just 1.5 centimeters — is the newest version of the signature heel. Elsewhere, a bold gladiator kicks things up a notch. And new material stories shine through, like calfskin with color dabbed on by hand, which creates the effect of crocodile scales seen through sunlit water. It is used on both thongs and high-heel mules.
René Caovilla
This year marks a milestone for the brand as it turns 90 — and René Caovilla’s greatest hits still resonate with consumers. So for spring, the brand revisits and reimagines best sellers, including the Cleo sandal; the Cinderella series; the Veneziana pump and slingback; the Chandelier sandal and the Margot sandal.
Flower Mountain
Tapping into the rich culture of Japan, Flower Mountain’s limited-edition capsule of sneakers and sandals features traditional Nishijin-ori, the intricate fabrics that are used to make kimonos. (They date all the way back to the 6th century.) The collection consists of four different patterns made of colorful silk threads and intricate weaves, with symbols like cherry blossoms and butterflies.
Santoni
Italy’s Marche region, where Santoni calls home, again provides a plethora of inspiration. High-heeled sandals are fashioned in golden and multi-color heels, reflecting the vibrancy of the sun and the sea. Santoni’s Double Buckle is highlighted in the Virna sandal, which comes high or with a kitten heel. New pointy-toe slingbacks also get the buckle treatment. The brand also serves up a tennis-inspired sneaker.
Pollini
Two very distinct heels make a statement in Archive collection — the triangular-shaped Island heel, and the Cavaliere boot heel, which debuts in sandals for spring. The driving loafer is re-imagined with rope laces — and fringed sandals and loafers make an impact.
Kate Cate
Now in her third season, Kate Cate designer Caterina Ravaglia is expanding the brand in the U.S. and Middle East, and growing her collection, too. “At the beginning, I had this juxtaposition where it was either sparkling or big chunky boots,” said the designer, who branched out by adding her beloved animal prints to low-heeled mule sandals and sneaker ballerinas made with recycled rubber soles. A crab-shaped sandal features buckles from the brand’s popular belts. But the designer is still happiest in her bold boots. “I was watching the Diane von Furstenberg documentary and she talked about going to Studio 54 in Zebra cowboy boots after she put her children to bed,” Ravaglia said. “Now I really want to go to the club in my zebra cowboy boots.”
Geox
The brand has long been known for its waterproof Spherica sneaker, which emphasizes breathability. This season, Geox is adding some new high-tech features and introducing the hands-free Spherica Plus slip-in model. The new technology features external support in the heel area that acts in tandem with a soft inner insert and elasticated lasting. “Our strength lies in having a global vision with continuous ideas and innovations, said Mario Moretti Polegato, founder and chairman of Geox.
Premiata
Reflecting the brand’s focus on sustainability, sneakers are crafted in recycled materials and feature lightweight soles. Leopard print adds an eye-catching touch to the kicks, while pony stands out as the key material used across dressier styles.
Aera
Aera co-founder and CEO Tina Bhojwani toasted her spring ’25 sustainably-minded collection at the intimate Rumore cocktail bar at Portrait Milano — where she showed summer slides, flats and mid heels. The brand introduced some innovative new materials designed to make an impact, including sustainable grosgrain and regenerated nylon yarn.
Fratelli Rossetti
“Shades of earth, shades of summer.” That’s the theme of Fratelli Rossetti’s collection, which features a mix of new and timeless styles. Ballet flats, sandals are fashioned in earthy tones, such as almond, olive and mango. And the Brera loafer continues to reign.
Mario Valentino
Inspired by the landscapes of the Amalfi coast, strappy sandals reign, and the collection plays up geometric shapes and transparencies. Shells and 3D flowers are key embellishments.
Le Silla
Le Silla is feting its 30th anniversary with a special edition of its signature Petalo pump. With a metallic finish, the style, called Anthea, draws inspiration from surrealist art. For spring ’25, the brand explores nature, with slingbacks and sandals taking center stage. Transparency is also a key theme, as seen on slingbacks, mules, boots and more.
