In his second men’s collection for the Italian fashion house, Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno continues to play with the brand’s signature Horesebit loafer.
While De Sarno added a platform to the ubiquitous house footwear style in his fall 2024 collection, the designer added a sculptural pointed toe to it for spring summer 2025. This new creation can be seen in both the Horsebit loafer and in a Horsebit boot.
Other new shoe styles this season included a pair of sneakers. Called Gucci cub3d sneaker, the new silhouette features a molded sole with interlocking G’s in a 3D effect.
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A new slip-on was also seen on the runway on Monday. The style, which has been popping up in recent men’s collections as of late features a molded scuba sole that harkens back to this season’s collection inspiration — surfing.
“This collection speaks of encounters between the city and the beach, and among people who love life,” the designer wrote in this season’s show notes. “Ultimately, it speaks about freedom. I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart. I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes.”
In a backstage interview with FN sister publication WWD, De Sarno cited William Finnegan’s book “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” as an inspiration. He noted that color has always been key to his design process, and his aesthetic, and they were certainly distinctive in his spring men’s collection, including acid greens, synthetic purples and bright orange, along with white, black and brown.
“I like to play with them, looking for harmony or playing with contrasts and creating new combinations. Color, poplin and prints are expressions of summer for me,” he said, citing hibiscus as a particular favorite.
Other accessories this season include a range of bags inspired by archival Gucci luggage – valigeria – made from brushed leather that’s bonded with the Gucci logo, with detachable pieces. The Gucci B bag comes in regular size, as well as a mini version. Padded leather bags are super soft, like a pillow, with magnetic closure. Crossbody bags have a flap closure, fastened with the signature Gucci snap hook hardware. And a functional bucket bag is cut from gaberdine canvas twill, dipped in pigment for a modern finish.
As for belts, they are held by a double-ended snap hook closure, echoing the shape of the Horsebit. Bracelets and necklaces are in segments like bamboo. Sunglasses, whether worn or carried backwards, have chunky frames, held by a vivid color Gucci strap.
