Top buyers talk to FN about what ruled the Milan and Paris runways — and the brands and trends that will dominate for spring ’22. Plus, how did the return to IRL show viewing and buying appointments go? Read on to find out.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
TOP BRANDS:
“I was very excited to be able to see Christian Louboutin’s new Arpoador sneaker introduction in person at their Paris showroom. It is an incredibly innovative slip-on design with a three-part construction: the upper, the transparent outsole, and a removable foot bed that can be seen through the sole. It’s eye-catching and sure to be a hit with our customers. His new expandable backpack is the perfect mix of fashion and utility, crafted in black pebbled leather with a red studded surround and signature side panels. The new small cross-body bag, a big trending shape for men, is another winner. The new Kim Jones collaboration collection designed with Travis Scott was the most highly anticipated show in Paris and was filled with terrific new footwear and accessories. A 90’s style skate shoe was a great new sneaker to add to their very strong brand assortment. A new take on the house oblique logo that reads “Jack”, commemorating Travis Scott’s Cactus Jack record label, was clever and is sure to be coveted when backpacks, saddles, and footwear sporting the new treatment are released. Fendi also had some incredibly strong introductions including their new chunky rubber outsoled, nylon strapped Flow sandal, especially in the house signature brown and yellow colorway. The futuristic styling of the Flow slip-on sneaker is incredibly sleek and appealing. The brand also introduced some great new reversible logo-ed belts that will be a nice addition to the trend that continues to maintain momentum.”
HOT TRENDS:
“Sneakers continue to dominate the men’s footwear landscape, with continuing innovation and new introductions from across brands. The 90’s style skate sneaker seems to be the silhouette of the season, with a version from Dior making its runway debut last week in Paris. Fendi also introduced their new skate-inspired Match sneaker with a terrycloth collar and Off White showed a mid-height version of the style. We are also seeing some exciting new innovation in the world of fashion sandals for men, sitting at the intersection of the sneaker and pool slide, with chunkier comfort soles, criss cross straps or bands, and signature soles, colorways, and logos. Dior’s new monk strapped slide in their new take on the oblique logo was a great introduction. Fendi’s new Flow sandal is another winner, with its chunky outsole and nylon straps, especially in the brand’s signature brown and yellow colorway. The offering of comfort-driven slip-on mules continues to expand, with great new introductions from many brands like Off White to Dolce and Gabbana, in both sleek dressy evening styles as well as more casual, comfort-driven versions. Loro Piana introduced a luxurious new knit Summer Slipper, an extension of their signature Summer Walk loafer.”
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IRL VS. VIRTUAL:
“My trip to Paris and then Milan with Neiman Marcus GMM Russ Patrick showed us both unequivocally that the virtual world is no true substitution to being at shows and in the showroom seeing the nuances and details of clothing and accessories, feeling the hand of fabrics and materials, and having organic, compelling conversations with our valued partners. We have certainly seen the value of digital interactions and that medium will continue to inform the way we engage with each other, offering viable options and additional means of communication. I was thrilled and grateful that we were able to start our return to the physical market at this time, to be truly inspired by the actual product we could touch and hold.”
Helen David, chief merchant of luxury, Kurt Geiger
TOP BRANDS:
“Louis Vuitton broke the internet with their Nike collab; The Air Force 1 model is instantly the most desirable shoe of the season. Fendi’s slip-on sneaker is a super comfortable luxe take on the trail running trend. Dior’s B713 sneaker — in collaboration with Travis Scott and inspired by 90s skate shoes — will be another sell out/waiting list style. I also liked A-Cold-Wall – great utilitarian styles picking up on the outdoor trend.”
HOT TRENDS:
“The dominant trend will be low-top basketball silhouettes, no doubt stemming from the resurgence of the Nike Dunk over the last year. Dior, Fendi, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Amiri all key players here. I am particularly excited about Amiri as it is fast gaining momentum and with tighter distribution keeps the hype. In terms of emerging trends, the 90’s skater influence is coming through. Lanvin’s curb sneaker already sold out in stores and as above, Dior’s B713 will also be one of the most desirable sneakers of the season. Outside of sneakers it great to finally see some of our more directional customers picking up on the loafer trend: The Prada Chocolate loafer is definitely the key loafer of the season, but brands like Casablanca and Rhude also have great versions.”
IRL VS. VIRTUAL:
“Nothing can compare to the feeling of attending an amazing show in person; the atmosphere, the pre-show excitement, and seeing the product in person. It really is a special moment which can’t be replicated digitally. However, the digital platform allows designers to be more creative, and importantly, makes the event much more accessible, which is a great thing for the fashion industry. Going forward I think we are likely to see a hybrid model, a combination of in person and digital platforms. The digital platform also allows smaller brands who struggle for decent time slots, or with budgets, the ability to show on the same stage.
Louis DiGiacomo, SVP, GMM of Men’s at Saks Fifth Avenue
TOP BRANDS:
HOT TRENDS:
“We’re excited to see a return to more formal and outdoor comfort styles for Spring 2022. Cozy mules and sandals will dominate the season because they can be worn comfortably while out and about all day.”
IRL VS. VIRTUAL:
“We anticipate returning to live shows sometime this fall season and can’t wait to reunite with friends and experience the collections in person. Nothing quite compares to attending a live fashion show, and we are looking forward to feeling that energy again soon. While the return to live shows is inevitable, we do believe the buying process could adapt a hybrid approach by offering both in-person and virtual market appointments.”
Thom Scherdel, menswear buyer, Browns
TOP BRANDS:
“The Prada show was a highlight of MFW, especially for accessories. We loved the bucket hat update, featuring a pointed brim and logo in the form of a mini pocket at the back. At Jil Sander, buttery blue leather tote bags caught our eye and at PFW Ernest W. Baker was one to watch for ready-to-wear but also for bringing back monochrome cowboy boots, matrix sunglasses and driving gloves.”
HOT TRENDS:
“We noticed a lot of buckled sandals in the shows, from square-toe black leather ones at Prada to neutral logo embossed pairs at Fendi and cream raffia buckled slides at Dior.”
IRL VS. VIRTUAL:
“Following a run of seasons where fashion houses have been restricted to presenting their latest collections digitally, it’s been great to see a return to live shows, and refreshing to have the chance to be in closer proximity to the creative energy.”
