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Fast-Fashion Failure: Toxic Chemicals Found in Shein, Temu Shoes

South Korean authorities found products from Shein, Temu and AliExpress containing toxic chemicals at levels hundreds of times more than what’s legal.
Workers producing garments at a textile factory that supplies clothes to fast fashion e-commerce company Shein.
Workers producing garments at a textile factory that supplies clothes to fast fashion e-commerce company Shein.
Jade GAO / AFP

Ultra-fast fashion comes with a toxic twist.

The likes of Shein and Temu have seen skyrocketing success, considering the almost unbelievable prices for the millions of products listed. But with that success comes scrutiny of how legitimate their business practices could be and what safety standards are in place.

Since early April, South Korea has Seoul officials conducting weekly inspections of items sold by Chinese online platforms. In its most recent review, 144 items from Shein, Temu and AliExpress were tested. Multiple products from all three companies failed to be legal, as reported by French news agency Agence France-Presse (AFP).

Phthalates are a group of chemical compounds that make plastic more flexible. They’re likely found in any product that comes into contact with plastic during production, packaging and delivery. They’re also detrimental to human health.

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“Phthalate-based plasticizers affect reproductive functions such as sperm count reduction and can cause infertility and even premature birth,” an official from Seoul’s environmental health team told AFP. These hormone-disrupting carcinogens have been linked to obesity and cancer as well, “so special care should be taken to avoid long-term contact with the human body.”

One pair of Shein shoes sampled had 229 times the legal limit for phthalates, per the outlet. Formaldehyde, a chemical commonly used by morticians and manufacturers alike, was detected in Shein’s caps at “double the allowable threshold.” Two bottles of nail polish from the most downloaded shopping app were found to have dioxane (a possible human carcinogen that can cause liver poisoning) at levels more than 3.6 times the allowed limit and methanol concentrations 1.4 times above the acceptable level, as reported by AFP.

“We work closely with international third-party testing agencies such as Intertek, SGS, BV and TUV, to regularly carry out risk-based sampling tests to ensure that products provided by suppliers meet Shein’s product safety standards,” a spokesperson told Sourcing Journal. “In the past year, we have conducted more than 400,000 chemical safety tests with these agencies.”

The Singapore-based giant noted that its suppliers are required to comply with the controls and standards that Shein has put in place, but also the product safety laws and regulations in the countries in which it operates. The IPO hopeful “endeavors” to work closely with local product safety agencies, monitoring changes and developments of product safety compliance laws and regulations, alleging Shein “continuously invests and optimizes” its product compliance processes.  

“Upon learning of the claims against our products, we immediately removed them from all our sites as a matter of caution whilst conducting our investigations,” the spokesperson said. “If non-compliance is verified, we will not hesitate to take appropriate follow-up action with the supplier of said product.”

But this isn’t the first time Shein has been flagged in South Korea.

In May, government officials reportedly found a pair of Shein shoes that contained 428 times the legal levels of phthalates, per AFP. Three bags were also tested, containing phthalate levels 153 times the permitted limit. In April, the Seoul Metropolitan Government said that of the 22 goods from Temu, Shein and AliExpress tested, half were contaminated with carcinogens and deemed unsuitable for use.

“Unlike officially imported products, overseas direct purchase products enter the country without separate safety inspections, creating a de facto safety blind spot,” a Seoul city official said at the time. “We cannot stand idly by while citizens’ health is at risk, so we have been announcing the results of our inspections conducted with professional institutions every week.”

As for the “Shop Like a Billionaire” platform, authorities found sandals with lead-ridden insoles at more than 11 times the legal limit. A spokesperson from Temu told AFP an immediate internal investigation and removal of those listings from the global marketplace ensued.

“Products that exceed the legal limit are products that directly contact the body, such as leather sandals and hats, so citizens should pay special attention,” Kim Tae-hee, an official in the capital, said in a statement. “The Seoul Metropolitan Government will continue to conduct safety tests periodically and disclose the results.”

A Temu spokesperson was quick to respond as well. “Upon receiving notice from the Seoul city government, we immediately launched an internal investigation. Of the 11 products identified, two items—a pair of sandals and a hat—were from Temu. We have swiftly removed these product listings from our global marketplace and are enhancing our systems and guidance to merchants to ensure they comply with safety standards and local regulations.”

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