Footwear has never been a one-size-fits-all industry. And yet, women who wear above a size 10 have historically faced limited options at retail.
Now, as demand for extended and wider shoe size options increases, some brands are filling the need — and seeing strong returns.
“I’m seeing higher demand for wide and extra wide,” said Marisa Byrne, brand president of Journee, which has offered extended sizes and wide calf shoes for women since 2013. “Now I’m having conversations about how maybe we should be opening up [sizes] 13 and 14.”
According to Byrne, the strong demand for larger and wider sizes has pushed Journee to re-examine the way it thinks about its core inventory for women and the white space in the extended sizing market.
“We have been fortunate enough where the customer has been coming to us for this specific need and so we’ve been building upon it,” Byrne said. “But if you don’t have that customer coming to you, there is a lot of expense.”
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The price factor may be one reason progress in extended sizing has stalled somewhat. But some larger shoe brands have recognized the opportunity in the market.
This month, Dolce Vita launched a new line of tall boots with three calf widths (including extra wide) and extended its shoe sizes to 13. Aldo followed up shortly after and announced its first-ever women’s footwear collection in extended sizing for its fall 2024 women’s line. The collection came to life via a partnership with WNBA star Diamond DeShields, who wears a size 12.5 shoe and has had difficulties finding options to wear in the past.
“For me, this collaboration not only meets a crucial market need but just as importantly, it promotes inclusivity and diversity in fashion, ensuring that everyone can find their perfect pair,” DeShields previously told FN in an interview.
And in its most recent earnings call, Caleres said that wide calf and tall shaft boots are performing well, particularly in the Naturalizer and Sam Edelman brands. In August, Naturalizer expanded its “Contoured Calf” innovation program to include sizes from 5M-12XW, plus extended calf sizing in narrow, medium, wide and extra wide. Natelle Baddeley, chief product officer of the Caleres’ brand portfolio told FN in an August interview that the reaction to the brand’s expanded offering has been “incredible.”
“Women feel seen and heard that fashion does not have to be one-size-fits-all,” the executive said. “We have many reviews and comments thanking Naturalizer for creating styles that fit women of different shapes and sizes.”
Given the positive feedback, Caleres has started to offer an extended range of sizes across its portfolio of brands, which includes Veronica Beard, Vince, Franco Sarto, Vionic, Dr. Scholl’s and Lifestride.
The recent initiatives are a testament to a growing focus on size inclusivity in women’s footwear. But some women, long frustrated at the lack of progress in extended sizes, have taken matters into their own hands.
Ahriana Edwards launched Vaila Shoes in March 2022 after struggling to find shoes in her size as a college student. Vaila, which offers women‘s dress shoes between sizes 9 and 14, inked its first major retail partnership with Macy’s for spring 2023 and has plans to onboard another retailer this year.
“I’ve always had a problem just going into the store and really finding my shoe size,” Edwards, who wears a size 12 shoe, told FN in an interview last year. “I definitely felt myself growing up kind of insecure about how I want to show up in this world fashion-wise because I didn’t have the options available.”
Detroit native Sierra Massey had a similar story. After struggling to find age appropriate and stylish shoes as a size 12 to 13 teenager, Massey wanted to find a solution.
While studying in college, Massey took a course in shoe making and learned how to design, source and market her own shoes. The result was Cee Cee Massey, her new brand that offers loafers, sneakers, ballerina flats and more in women’s sizes 12 to 16. (Massey has been making shoes in extended sizes since 2020 but officially launched her brand this year.)
The brand is planning to launch new styles for spring 2025 and eventually enter apparel. While Cee Cee Massey is currently sold its website, Massey said she is open to partnering with the right retail partners if the opportunity arises.
“I would love to get to the place where larger size shoes are available for women everywhere — and easily accessible,” Massey said.
