Alexandre Birman Nods Carnival Colors for Spring Without the Gimmicks

What: Latin ties clearly bind. For the first time, Alexandre Birman brought his Brazilian luxury women’s brand to Milan for a fashion week presentation and buzzy party with local bellwether boutique Antonia.

“We thought that it made sense, with the excitement in Italian fashion right now and the energy here, too,” said Birman from the manicured courtyard where his spring ’17 presentation was held on the first day of fashion week.

It paid off, with the change of scenery from the grand but dark Bristol Hotel in Paris to the natural-light setting giving the line a new vitality — and allowing the saturated palette to shine.

The shoes: “For the collection, I wanted to combine the best of Brazil with an Italian spirit, too,” he added. “We’re similar and quite complementary.” Ruffled rainbow suede mules nodded to carnival without literal gimmicks.

Kicky gingham threw off saucy stilettos, making them instantly gamine. A new high-vamp pump construction was softened with silk ankle wrap sashes. The collection’s strongest styles were also the simplest: a glove suede or linen flat mule and a tri-strap update on the popular Clarita in playful parrot brights or sophisticated black and white. The former felt quite refined Italian, the later rather boldly Brazilian — and both had the makings of best-sellers.

Click through the gallery below to see more of the Alexandre Birman collection.